Battery Re-location Project Complete! Before and After Pictures.

I believe Morgan Yachts outfitted the M382’s with the house and starter batteries under the quarterberth on the starboard side of the vessel.  Here is and image of what we found aboard Pilgrim when she arrived in Beaufort, NC in late January 2014.

House battery bank (green) & Starter battery (blue) when we took ownership of Pilgirm

One of our initial projects was to clean up the residual mess and damage in the battery compartment. 

Removing wood cabinetry damaged by battery acid spill.

During this clean up we decided to re-locate the batteries.  Nearly 21 months later we can finally say the we are finished with the effort.

We removed a drawer and storage locker from below the salon seat forward of the galley sinks.

The salon seat forward of the galley sinks - site of the future house battery bannk.

We fabricated and installed a battery box capable of storing six 6V batteries.  This will be Pilgrim’s new house bank.

House bank install complete.

Two removable panels conceal the battery bank.

Battery bank closed.  We installed vents on the forward and starboard sides of the cabinetry.

We used the opening and the door face from the original drawer to create access to the battery monitor shunt, battery switch, and ANL Fuse.

Hinged access to shunt, battery switch, and ANL fuse.

Back at the quarterberth, we removed the deck and gutted the original dividers.

Deck and dividers removed from quarterberth.

We tabbed new dividers to the hull and created four new lockers… two outboard for storage; inboard and aft for the engine raw water thru hull and strainer, inboard and forward for the starter battery.

New dividers and deck in quaterberth.

In addition to the start battery the inboard forward compartment also houses the automatic charging relay, bilge pump switches, and the battery control panel.

Looking down into locker containing ACR, Start Battery, & wiring for bilge pumps and battery control panel.

The battery and bilge pump panel is located below the navigation station bench seat.  This is the site of the original battery selector switch.

Battery control & bilge pump switch panel below nav station seat.

For additional images and notes check out our – Battery Relocation Photo Album

Securing the House Battery Bank

One of the final components of re-locating the house battery bank was securing the batteries. 

Per Full River’s Specs each 6V battery weighs in at approximately 66 pounds.  Presently our house bank consists of four 6V batteries = 264 pounds.  We plan to expand the bank to six 6V batteries = 396 pounds.   Preventing this 400 pound mass from sliding around during normal conditions is critical to the long term health of our electrical systems.  Eliminating the possibility of this 400 pound mass from becoming a projectile in the event of a knockdown is critical to life and limb.

We designed the new battery box to fit snugly around the batteries.  The fit will limit side to side and fore to aft motion of the batteries.

Installing the new fiberglass over plywood battery box in the space under the center salon seat.

The new battery box is mechanically fastened, six ¼” counter sunk, flat head screws, to the Morgan 382’s internal glass unit (IGU).  The IGU is a structural member in the Morgan’s hull that provides strength to the hull and a mounting surface for the cabin sole.

Since we are two batteries shy of our desired six battery house bank, we constructed temporary filler to prevent the existing bank from sliding fore and aft.

Four 6V batteries plus the temporary filler in the new box.

Ok, this set up takes care of movement under normal conditions. 

Next we installed the system’s wiring.

House battery bank wiring complete.

We installed the wiring to allow space for bars to run across the top of the batteries.  Initially I envisioned having some stainless steel bars fabricated to fit across the space, but custom fabrication = $$$.  In the end we decided to keep it simple.

We purchased two 3’ long sticks of ½” diameter stainless steel all thread rod. 3’ was more than enough length to span the distance across the top of the battery box and thru both adjacent 3/4" plywood walls.

Using the 1/2" all thread rod to locate the hole on bulkhead aft of the battery box.

We began by drilling a ½” diameter hole in the plywood wall forward of the battery bank.  Running the rod through the hole and across the top of the battery bank aided in locating the position for the hole on the wall aft of the battery bank.  After drilling all the holes and test fitting the rods, we removed the rods and  cut them the proper length.

We sheathed the rods in 5/8" id hose. 

When re-installing the rods, we sheathed them in 5/8” id hose to prevent chafe or the possibility of a loose wire shorting out to the steel rod.

The ends of the rods are secured with nuts on both ends.

Nuts and washers installed on the ends of the rods under the galley sink (center, right below black water pump).

Nuts and washers installed on forward face, below the center salon seat.

We are confident the batteries are secure.  The next and final step in our battery re-location project is to fabricate a lid for the new house bank installation.

Please check out our Battery Re-location Photo Album for additional images and notes on this project.

Aluminum Angle Brackets In Salon

On the Morgan 382, 383, & 384 design,  the chainplates for the aft lower stays are anchored to cabinetry in the salon.  To port an installation of cabinets and storage bins that also serves as a seat back provides the anchor point for the chainplate.   

Starboard salon cabinets with new aluminum angle brackets installed.  Note: Lower, aft chainplate is angled metal tang in center.

To starboard the aft lower chainplate is attached to the seat back / pilot berth fiddle.

Starboard salon seat back / pilot berth fiddle with original angle bracket installed.

To structurally tie these longitudinal anchor points into the vessel Morgan Yachts utilized angle aluminum brackets at the fore and aft ends.  The 1/8” thick by approx. 18” long brackets are fastened to both the bulkhead and the longitudinal member with ¼” wood screws on 2” centers .   My initial assessment of this system was less than awe inspiring.   In preparation for painting the bulkheads, I removed forward brackets on both port and starboard.  Unfortunately removing the brackets revealed corrosion along the backside. 

Corrosion on the backside of the port, forward aluminum bracket.

More disconcerting was my discovery that the wood screws installed by Morgan Yachts, were only ¾” long.  The aluminum angle is 1/8” thick + the ¼” teak veneer on the bulkhead = 3/8”.  This means that at best only 3/8” of the fastener was in contact with the structural portion of the forward bulkhead.

Corrosion on the backside of the starboard, aft bracket.

I removed all four of the aluminum brackets, and discovered varying degrees of corrosion.  Unfortunately the ¾” wood screws were used throughout.  The ¼” veneer is on the starboard seat back and both forward bulkheads.  The aft, partial bulkheads and the port side cabinetry are finish grade ¾” plywood so the ¾” screws were more appropriate in these locations.

After removing the bracket from each corner, I used a scraper followed by 80 grit sandpaper to clean the surface.

Starboard, aft corner after scraping and sanding away the corrosion residue.

I then drilled out the screw holes to a full ¼” diameter.  Using a syringe, I filled the existing holes with thickened epoxy.

The old brackets went to the scrap pile to be recycled.  I purchased new sections of 1/8” thick aluminum with  longer sides,  1-1/2”. 

New aluminum angle for port, aft on left and original on right.

The original brackets were cut to remain hidden by the seat back cushions.  The new ones will run the full length of the cabinetry.  The old fasteners were installed at 2” intervals.  I chose to go with 3” intervals on the new brackets.  Since the new brackets are longer they all contain more fasteners than the originals.  I chose to remain with ¼” fasteners, but were possible use machine screws to thru-bolt.

The nuts and fender washers from starboard, forward bracket are visible in the locker forward of the bulkhead.

Where access eliminated my ability to thru-bolt, I used wood screws that took full advantage of the thickness of the bulkhead / cabinetry.  These modifications dramatically increase my confidence in strength of the aft, lower chainplates.

Here are some before and after images.

Starboard, aft bracket- Before.

Starboard, aft bracket - After.

Port, Aft bracket - Before

Port, Aft bracket - After.

Looking forward from companionway at freshly painted bulkhead and new angle brackets.

Corrosion Discovered on Backing Plates

This post is a continuation of previous post– Morgan 382 Chainplates.

The only significant corrosion we discovered was on the aluminum backing plate for the port cap shroud chainplate. This plate is accessed via the outboard cabinet in the head.  The visible side of the backing plate and the six, ½ x 2 ½ ” stainless steel fasteners appeared fine, but removing the plate we discovered…

White powdery residue from aluminum vs. salt water corrosion caked on plywood bulkhead.

This type of corrosion typically occurs when salt water is trapped against aluminum.  Despite recent heavy rains, the area was not wet when we removed the backing plate. So, I’m guessing this corrosion is from Pilgrim’s early days in south Florida.  I’m also speculating that the water intrusion came from leaking port windows that have since been replaced.

 Fortunately the plywood bulk head is not damaged and the pitting on the plate is not serious enough to warrant replacement. 

Using  a scraper followed by 80 grit sand paper, I removed the white powdery residue from the bulkhead and backing plate.  The backing plate then when home with me for an overnight soak in vinegar.  The next morning, I used a wire brush chucked into a cordless drill to clean the plate.

The aluminum backing plate after a visit from the wire brush.

I followed this up with a soap and water wash down.  Finally, nearly 24 hours after it’s extrication, the backing plate was ready for a few coats of zinc chromate.  The zinc chromate chemically etches the aluminum.  The etching process forms a chemical bond that makes the surface much more resistant to corrosion.

Allowing three coats of zinc chromate to air dry.

After allowing the zinc chromate to dry for 48 hours, I applied a few coats of tan spray paint to the backing plate. 

The backing plate painted and re-installed.  Note the white creamy substance on the bolts is
Utra-Systems Tef-Gel

While in the process of painting the salon, I removed the aluminum angle brackets that join the salon bulkheads to the outboard cabinetry.  The salon cabinetry serves and an anchor point for the aft lower chainplates.  Thus these short sections of angle aluminum are critical.  Unfortunately I found similar salt water corrosion along the back side of all the brackets.

Corrosion on the backside of the port forward angle brace in salon.  Note - Inadequate 1/4" dia x 3/4" long fasteners to left of bracket.

Much to my dismay, I also discovered that the screws in all the angle brackets were only ¾” long.  Hmm… the aluminum angle is 1/8” thick + the ¼” teak veneer on the bulkhead = 3/8”.  This means that at best the screws only protruded 3/8” into structural material!  Guess I need to add replacing the salon aluminum angle brackets to my project list.

But first re-bedding the chainplates…

For more images and notes check out our Chainplates Photo Album.

Morgan 382 Chainplates

WARNING: Technical sailing jargon ahead.  This post dives head first into the tangs and bolts of sailboat rigging.  An attempt on my behalf to define all the nautical terms below would render this post as palatable as a tall glass of salt water.  This one is for the sailors out there….

Pilgrim’s standing rigging and mast were replaced by the previous owner in 2002.  This was done while the vessel was based on Lake Erie and since the re-rig she has remained on the lake.  Subject to six month sailing seasons on a fresh water lake the rig is in excellent condition.  The new mast is an Isomat NG80, double spreader rig few feet taller than the original.  Pilgrim’s original cap shroud deck fitting was replaced with a new fitting capable of accommodate the upper stay. 

The components of our cap shroud chainplate.  Top - Deck fitting for cap and upper stay.  Left: Below decks bracket.  Right: Backing Plate.

Over the past couple weeks we have re-moved, inspected, and re-bedded all six of Pilgrim’s midship chainplates.  Fortunately we discovered very little corrosion and no stress cracks or hole elongation.  Other than the two cap shroud deck fittings, we believe all the chainpate hardware was original equipment.  I highlight “was” since we replaced all the thru-deck fasteners in the system.

Thru-deck fasteners?  Yep.

Port cap shroud chainplate installed.  Note rusty nut on thru-deck fastener. 

Cap shroud chain plate with thru-deck and thru-bulkhead fasteners in place.

 We were surprised to discover that the rig loads are transferred thru the deck to the chainplates below via four 3/8” stainless steel machine screws.    Initially I was shocked and worried by the unfamiliar set up.  Is this system strong enough?  Why are the thru-deck fasteners 3/8” and the thru-bulkhead ½”?   

Time for some internet homework…Stress Terms defined via Wikipedia…

A:  Compression = Squeezing the material =  The stress state caused by an applied load that acts to reduce the length of the material along the axis of the applied load. 

B:  Tensile = Pulling the material = The stress state caused by an applied load that tends to elongate the material along the axis of the applied load.

C:  Shear = Faces of the material sliding relative to one another =  The stress state caused by the combined energy of a pair of opposing forces acting along parallel lines of action through the material (e.g.  cutting paper with scissors)

In terms of relative strength of stainless steel fasteners they are able to tolerate the greatest about of stress in compression, followed by tensile, and finally shear.  Thus a M382 thru-deck fastener’s, under tensile stress, are 3/8” while the thru-bulkhead fasteners, under shear stress, are ½”.

Ok so back to the boat.  All six of the M382 midship chainplates are of similar design.

Chainplate assembly for starboard, forward lower stay.

Relying on the four 3/8” stainless steel machine screws to transfer the rig loads.  None of the screws displayed signs of fatigue or elongation, but they all possessed a small degree of surface rust.  We also discovered surface rust covering a couple of the interior nuts.  Since we expect these fasteners are original to the vessel – 35 years old – we replaced all the thru deck fasteners with new 3/8” machine screws with nylon lock nuts.

Starboard cap shroud chainplate re-installed with double nuts on the thru-deck fasteners.

The new fasteners for the cap shroud chain plate were a bit too long.  Rather than cut off the excess we chose to add a second, lock nut, to the assembly. 

Personally I would prefer the vertical, bulkhead, plane of these chainplates to be longer.  I believe a longer vertical section would distribute the loads over a greater area of the bulk head.  But there is not history of issues or failure with the original design.  On our Morgan these primary bulkheads are nearly 2” thick.  They consist of outer layers of ¼” plywood façade surrounding 2 layers of ¾” plywood. 

While the chainplates were absent we also took care of some structural (tabbing) and cosmetic (painting) projects in the salon area.  See our “Paint In Lieu Of Headliner” and “PaintIn Lieu of Headliner, The Portside Story” post for more details.

Port aft lower chainplate (fore ground) and cap shroud chainplate (background) re-installed.

I will discuss corrosion discovered on the backing plates and re-bedding the chainplates in upcoming posts.

Check out our Chainplates Photo Album for additional images and notes.

Paint in Lieu of Headliner - The Port Side Story

Over the past few days painting the interior of the side decks in lieu of the headliner has migrated to the port salon and back into the galley.

The effort began with the removal of the cap shroud chainplate from the bulkhead

Port chain plates - Fore ground: aft lower tang.  Background: Cap shroud chainplate removed from bulkhead.

New we removed the aft lower chainplate …not so fast…  When we began to remove the lower, interior tang portion of aft chain plate I noticed  the surrounding deck sink by  1/8” to 3/16”.  The bulkheads and the cabinets along the port side neither touch nor are tabbed to the deck above.  It appears the two chainplates support the side deck. 

My solution…  Add sections of tabbing between the bulkhead and the underside of the deck to each side of the cap shroud chainplate.  Plus, add a long strip of tabbing along the entire length of the joint between the top of the port salon cabinetry and the underside of the deck.   To prep for the new tabbing I ground down the surfaces, added a series of #8 counter sink screws to the veneer along the bulkhead, and masked off the surrounding area to minimize the mess.

Ready to install new tabbing.  The tang for the aft lower was left in place to support the deck at the proper height.

Masking over the entire face of the cabinets proved to be a worthy endeavor as the long strip above the cabinets was tricky to install. 

A section of 1708 cloth applied on either side of cap shroud chainplate and 6" wide two strips of lighter cloth run the length of the cabinet face.

The new tabbing successfully supported the side deck with both chainplates removed. 

While set up to work with epoxy in the salon, I also filled holes from old fixtures and faired in some gouged areas along the forward salon bulkhead.

Taped off sections of bulkhead in preparation for epoxy filler

Sanding down epoxy filler - a messy job in the cabin.

prep work complete - taped and ready for the first coat of primer.

 90% of successful paint jobs is the prep work.   We applied two coats of primer and two coats of paint.  Below are the results…

Port salon bulkhead freshly painted.

Looking aft along port side of salon.  Note new tabbing between underside of deck and masked cabinet face.

Looking aft along port side of salon after painting.  Plan to install trim along both sides painted surface.

Interior of side decks in galley ready for the first coat of primer.

Fresh paint in galley.  Plan to add a section of trim between the painted surface and the cabinet face.

Looking forward from galley at newly painted bulkheads.

For more images and notes about work in the salon check out our - Salon Refit Photo Album.

For more images and notes about work in the galley check out our - Galley Refit Photo Album.

I still plan to pen a post sharing our experiences removing, servicing, and re-bedding the chainplates - stay tuned.