Removing Pilgrim’s remaining bottom paint revealed 38
previously undiscovered blisters. Unlike last summer’s blister & hull
damage repairs (photo album – Hull
Damage & Blister Repairs 2014), the blisters discovered recently are
not linked to ill fitted or ill tabbed internal structures exerting focused
pressure on the hull. Nor did any of
them lead to delamination or areas of cloth lacking resin.
With the bottom paint gone, tiny seams or pock marks in the hull provided the evidence
of an issue. Following the evidence with
a grinder typically lead to a void a short distance into the outer copped
strand mat layer. None of the blisters were wet, but Pilgrim has been on the
hard for nearly 18 months so this was not surprising. Generally the blisters were minor… smaller
than the palm of my hand and penetrating only into the outer layer of mat.
Two notable exceptions were along
the port keel. These areas were larger
in size and the damage extended to the outer layer of woven cloth.
Two large blisters on port keel. |
These two may be linked to hull stresses as they are located
along the transition from solid lead ballast to the hollow section of the keel.
While no area of the hull was completely blister free, the
starboard hull had a line of blisters extending from the cockpit area to around
mid-salon area and just below the waterline.
Line of blisters along starboard hull just below the waterline. |
12 of the 38 blisters were deep enough to require additional
mat for repairs. I developed a fancy system for identifying which areas
required glass matt and which simply needed filler.
Group of three blisters on the starboard waterline |
I’ll bet the readers of this blog are savvy enough to figure
out my system from a single photograph.
Our system for repairing the blisters followed the same
steps we used last year.
Cutting 1708 cloth for blister repairs. |
Apply one or more layers of 1708 cloth to hull
Ready for the grinder. |
After curing – wash, rinse, grind with 36 grit disc, wipe
down with acetone. Then fill the area epoxy
thickened with a combination of milled fibers & cabosil. Areas not requiring fiberglass cloth (see
blister in center of image above) start the repair process with an application
of thickened epoxy.
Ready for sander. |
After curing – wash, rinse, sand with 80 grid paper in
orbital sander, wipe down with acetone. Apply first application of epoxy thickened with fairing filler.
Ready for hand sanding. |
After curing – wash, rinse, sand lightly with 80 grid paper
in orbital sander, hand sand with 80 grit paper on large block, and wipe down
with acetone. Second application of
epoxy thickened with fairing filler.
After curing – wash, rinse, hand sand with 80 grit paper on
large block, wipe down with acetone.
Ready for barrier coat :-) |
While sanding fairing I developed a second, highly evolved
system of identifying the areas completed.
Once again I’m assuming readers of this blog can deduce my system from a
single photograph.
The next step, yet uncompleted, will be to overcoat the
entire hull with 5 to 7 coats of barrier coat.
For more images and notes from this project check out our Bottom
Job Photo Album.
No back to that lingering Ice
Box Rebuild.
Excellent work,Jeff! You've got yourself a new hull.
ReplyDeleteI was wondering was it necessary and did you check the keel bolts?
Thanks.
Steve - Thanks.
ReplyDeleteHmmm. Very difficult to discern subtle humor via computer chat. Are you serious or kidding?
The M382, M383, & M384 series of vessels were manufactured with an encapsulated keel. This means the ballast and the keel are integral to the hull and no keel bolts are used.