Sun Cover for Dodger Windows - Part 2

Here is a link to… Sun Cover for Dodger Windows – Part 1

Due to the irregular shape of the side windows and some challenging topography where the dodger meets the cockpit combing, I decided to start the install with the center panel.  I’ve installed snaps on past projects, but for this project I had a new tool in the arsenal… the Snaprite by Sailrite. 

inaugural use of the snaprite system

Specialized dies transform a rivet gun into a tool for placing and installing snaps.  The sailrite instructionalvideo  explains this system far better than I could hope to do in text.

Front panel installed now onto the sides

As with any tool there is a learning curve.   I broke multiple mandrels attempting to set a single snap stud (base) and still was unable to achieve a proper roll over on the eyelet barrel.  Achieving a secure set on the studs was so frustrating that I reverted to the old system of using a die and punch by the time I began work on the side panels .  The Snaprite tool did shine when used for locating and setting the snap button & socket into the new sun covers.   This tool really took the guess work out of locating the proper place to install the top portion of the snap. 

Once both the center and side panels were installed, I realized that the long gap where the center panel met the side panes could catch enough air to generate noisy flapping. 

the intersection of the two panels did not provide a suitable area to mount a snap stud

The dodger did not have a site for attaching snaps in this area.  I return home to the sewing machine with the covers in tow.   If the site was unsuitable for a snap, perhaps a velco?

using webbing an velcro to secure the panels at the intersection

A few inches of of velcro and some 1” flat webbing  saved the day. 

Not only to the cover’s protect the widows from UV damage, but they provide a nice bit of privacy when in a crowed anchorage or at the dock.

the view from the cockpit with the sun covers installed

Creating the dodger sun covers is the first project fully completed on SV Pilgrim!

As with most of our projects we have created a photo album – Dodger Sun Covers – Winter 2014, that contains additional images.  All our albums can also found  in the  links section, right side pane of our website – M382Pilgrim.blogspot.com 

Sun Cover for Dodger Windows - Part 1

The quality of Pilgrim’s dodger stood out on my first visit to the vessel.  The clarity of the strataglass windows is remarkable when compared to other vessels in our boat search.

Jeff on the foredeck while prepping Pilgrim for transport in the Sandusky Harbor Marina

Now that we own Pilgrim and plan to take her south, protecting her wonderful windows from year round, low latitude UV damage is a high priority on the project list.  Fabricating a removable sun cover for the windows seems like the best solution.

We feared using royal blue that matches the existing dodger fabric would generate too much heat in warmer climates.  Our choice of colors…  a contrasting white UV resistant fabric.

Using the center window panel to create a rough cut out of the fabric. 

Initially I attempted to measure out the pattern.  This worked well to estimate the amount of fabric for the job, but proved too inaccurate for creating a pattern.  After one false start that resulted in a permanent blue line across the lower section of the front panel, I tossed aside the tape measure and simply outlined the panels to create a rough cut out of the covers.  With the fabric atop the panels I was able to fine tune the dimensions of the cover and thus skipped creating a pattern.

I placed the fabric atop the panel to fine tune the shape of the cover.

The side panels were created via an identical process.

using the side panels as pattern for the cover

In the design phase, I decided to use edge binding rather the hemming the covers.  Using red or green 1” webbing as binding tape for the edges allows for easily identification of the port & starboard side panels.  Additionally, I used red and green on the corresponding sides of the center panel to assist with orienting it to the dodger.  White binding tape was used for the top and bottom edges of the center panel.

adding a second row of stitching to the binding tape on the port side panel

To provide additional longevity to the covers the edge binding is double stitched in place. 

The covers were now ready for the installation of snaps that will affix them to the dodger.  I felt the snap placement would be more accurate if completed with the windows installed in the dodger.  Time to load up the project and head out to the boat…  

What a grind...

After a month of pulling wiring and extricating plumbing, I am now quite familiar with many of the nearly inaccessible voids and dark recesses of our 1979 M382 Hull#115.  I’ve had a good look at the bones of the vessel and must admit Morgan’s construction techniques on our M382 leave much room for improvement.  The tabbing along many of the partial and full bulkheads is intermittent.   In our 1966 M34, the tabbing between bulkheads and the hull extended non-stop from the hull deck joint to the end of the bulkhead or in the case of a full bulkhead all the way around to the opposite hull deck joint.   

Ok, ok not everyone reading this is familiar with boat construction.  Feel free to skip down the to next paragraph if you are familiar with  the concept of bulkheads and tabbing.  The hull of the M382 consists of layers upon layers of fiberglass mat. These layers are constructed over a mold that provides the hull's basic shape. To retain the shape of the mold once the vessel is subjected to the stresses of life at sea the hull requires internal bulkheads.  Inside the boat these bulkheads appear as full walls (reaching from floor to ceiling) and as partial walls (supports for the counter in the galley, seat backs in the salon, supports for the vee berth, etc.)  These walls are attached to the hull by wide strips of fiberglass mat.  These strips, epoxied to both the walls and the hull, are called tabbing.

In Pilgrim, I have discovered multiple areas where the tabbing runs for 18” then is gone for 12” then runs for 18” and so on.   

Looking down into the locker below the forward galley counter top

The image above is looking down into the galley dry storage locker (the locker floor and hot water heater are removed).  The ¾” plywood walls that serve as supports for the counter top also serve as partial bulkheads.  The areas I ground away the white gel coat down to the brown fiberglass of the hull are lacking tabbing.  Not shown in the image are the two identical areas of missing tabbing just above the top of the picture. 

Amazingly I found similar intermittent tabbing along the full bulkhead just forward of the mast.  This area is accessed by squeezing through a cabinet door under the counter in the head or through a hole in the head counter top.    In the image below, looking down through the hole in the head counter top,  I have removed all the plumbing and the three through hull fittings that served the head plumbing.  It is difficult is see in this image, but the aft bulk head (right in image) lacks tabbing to the hull in an area the spans from the upper, large through hull to the smaller through hull opening lower down.

Space under head counter top with all plumbing removed

Once the grime and gel coat are ground away the missing section of tabbing is much more visible. 

Space under counter top in head after grinding.  Note:  hose in foreground is for shower sump.

Unfortunately while grinding away the gel coat in the head area, I discovered much of the tabbing surrounding the sole stringers, mast bucket stringers, and head pan was installed poorly.  Much of the tabbing in this area was epoxied onto the hull gel coat rather than to the hull fiberglass.   This method of installation is unacceptable as bonding to the gel coat does not provide the strength necessary to sustain loads in this critical location.  Some of the tabbing had already separated from the gel coat.  

In the early 80's Morgan had a recall on M382's due to structural issues in this area of the vessel.  The company sent out repair team(s)  to fix all the M382's. Based on my review of conversations on the Morgan 38 discussion board, I am confident that Pilgrim was visited by a repair team.  I believe that in many areas on Pilgrim the repair team did not remove the gel coat from the hull prior to installing new tabbing.   In many of these areas the tabbing has failed.  Fortunately, I have not discovered any evidence of hull deformation (i.e. irregularities on the exterior hull surface, gaps between the bulkheads and the hull, gaps between the bulkheads and the sole, etc.)  

With all the plumbing gone,  the wiring removed, and the rig out of the boat now is the time to address these concerns. 

We are  also addressing a lack of tabbing in the  quaterberth…

Grinding areas in the quarter berth that will be receiving additional tabbing

And adding tabbed, partial bulk heads under the pilot berth…

Before:

Pilot berth with plywood decking removed. The dividers are not tabbed to the hull?!

After…

New 3/4" plywood dividers that will be tabbed to the hull and the seat back.

We are focusing our current efforts aboard Pilgrim in the cabin from the quaterberth to the door into the vee berth.  Hopefully the areas outside this core area of the vessel do not contain more surprises.

If you want more details and images from this project please check out our photo album – Tabbing Repairs – 2014.

We will continue to add photos to the album and post updates here.

Back to the grind.

The Purge Is Nearly Complete

Pilgrim arrived in Beaufort a little over one month ago.  Despite three winter storms and a bout with the flu, we are now the cusp of purging all the old plumbing,  through hull fittings, transducers, wiring, and much, much more.

Using a chisel to remove the plywood pad under on of the defunct transducer through hull fittings.

Over the past month we have stripped out all Pilgrim’s plumbing from the galley faucet to the through hull fittings.   We have discovered two critical systems near failure in the plumbing systems (see Justification for Removing All the ThroughHulls & Plumbing). 

Nav Station with electrical panel and all wiring removed.

We have also removed most of the electrical system from the breaker panel to the brass light fixtures to the battery banks.

Wiring and plumbing in the bilge.  This in now all gone.

We found some very creative use of wire nuts and silicone for DC wiring in the bilge and pulled three, non-functional transducers from the hull.

Surprise! 2 to 4 inch void behind the cabinetry under the pilot berth.

We have also discovered vast amounts of hidden storage spaces.  It seems that Morgan fabricated much of the cabinetry for the 382’s in the wood shop then affixed it  to the vessel  prior to installing the deck.  For this manner of construction to work efficiently the cabinetry had to drop in place one ready for install.  Thus there is a great many voids behind interior installations such as the galley counters, the quaterberth headliner, the pilot berth bunk, and the head pan.  Where possible we are modifying existing interior structure to allow us access to the additional space.

Pile of old hoses and lumber pulled from Pilgrim.

Meanwhile the pile of scrap material is piling up under Pilgrim.

Hopefully our next post will highlight us beginning the rebuilding phase of Pilgrim's refit.

Justification For Removing all the Plumbing and Through Hull Fittings

Like Pilgrim's electrical system much of what I discovered in the plumbing looks to be original. 

Head plumbing.

The original components in the head  include a couple gate valves and lots of PVC Pipe in the black water plumbing. 

Portion of Galley Plumbing under sink.

The galley plumbing has received some upgrades including  a new Force 10 hot water tank and a new pressure water pump, but the installation is haphazard. Much of the galley plumbing appears to be original to the vessel.

At times I became overwhelmed by the scope of the project.  Pulling all the plumbing?  What about the saying, “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it?” 

With all the head plumbing, including three through hulls, and most of the  galley plumbing now removed.  Two discoveries completely justified my commitment to strip it all out.

By applying on moderate pressure to a pipe wrench while attempting to remove a newer ball valve in the head, the lower section of the valve sheared off.

Large valve on right is intact.  Smaller valve on left sheared off below valve.

If this ever happened while on the water, only immediate action would prevent the vessel from sinking.

The second frightening discovery was the hose on the galley sink drain. 

 

Exhaust hose used for sink drain "rotting" just above through hull fitting.

The wire reinforced ehhaust hose could actually be considered over kill for a sink drain.  Age and a kink just above the hose barb at the through hull have served to “rot” the rubber hose.  This section of hose is at least 18” below the waterline.   The lower sectio of the hose is cracked and soft to the touch. I'm very surprised it was not already leaking water when Pilgrim was last floating.  Failure of this hose would result in rapid flooding.

I’m still overwhelmed by the scope of the project, but definitely feeling justified in removing all the plumbing and through hulls.  Currently three through hull fittings are out and two remain to be pulled.  Well that is not counting the three transducer through hull fittings.  That’s another project.

M382 Pilot Berth Facade - SOLD

UPDATE - The item below has sold.

Pilgrim's previous owner created a nice teak facade for the pilot berth.

View from galley

view from forward looking aft.

The facade has three cabinet doors that match the M382 interior and one open section at center.

The panel is actually two pieces that meet in center - just forward of open section.

Each section is held in place  at the bottom by 3 screws into the pilot berth combing  and at the top by two screws.  One top screw is located at the middle and the second screw is at the bulkhead.

Forward Section

Aft Section

We are asking $100 plus any shipping and handling costs.  We would prefer that the buyer picks up the panels in person in Beaufort, NC, but I am confident that shipping the two panels is a possibility.

If you are interesting leave a comment here or on the M38 Owners Board.

We prefer and open design and plan on creating shelving in the pilot berth area.

Stripping Down the Interior

While the winter weather continues to thwart our progress Anne and I have both rebounded from the flu.  I’m back to stripping down the interior in the pursuit of rewiring and re-plumbing Pilgrim.

Pilgrim's Original Electrical Panel

The electrical panel is gone.  The wiring was definitely original with previous owners finding creative methods of adding devices and circuits to the system.  I’m surprised that none of the original wiring from Morgan was tinned.  All of the wiring buses were located in a false bottom in the navigation table.  Clever, but I'm certain the space will be too small for the re-build.

Panel removed now onto the wiring

The process is daunting, but I am confident this is the best course of action.

Chasing down wiring has also lead me to remove some of the headliner.

 

Crumbling open cell foam that rained down from the headliner.

 I believe that some of these pieces have never been removed.  Removing some of the sections resulted in a shower of foul, old open cell foam material.  Yuck. 

It will be out with the old for at least another week.  Once all the old wiring and plumbing are gone we will then begin to install the new.

Basic DC Wiring Diagram for SV Pilgrim

Well we may not succumb to the weather as we proclaimed in our last post, but over the last week the flu has kept both of us at home and away from Pilgrim.  We are both now feeling better. 

While at home on the mends, I fabricated a basic DC wiring diagram for SV Pilgrim. 

Draft Basic DC Wiring Diagram for SV Pilgrim

I realize my diagram overly simplifies the engine harness, the house distribution, and other systems.  The diagram does help me visualize the layout of the system and identify some parts we need to order. 

The next step is to calculate the wire & fuse sizes.  I’m going to seek some outside assistance for this calculation.  

Now that we are feeling better expect some progress on the quaterberth repairs and battery installation over the next week.