Blister Repairs 2015 Session

Removing Pilgrim’s remaining bottom paint revealed 38 previously undiscovered blisters.  Unlike last summer’s blister & hull damage repairs (photo album – Hull Damage & Blister Repairs 2014), the blisters discovered recently are not linked to ill fitted or ill tabbed internal structures exerting focused pressure on the hull.  Nor did any of them lead to delamination or areas of cloth lacking resin. 

With the bottom paint gone, tiny seams or pock marks in the hull provided the evidence of an issue.  Following the evidence with a grinder typically lead to a void a short distance into the outer copped strand mat layer. None of the blisters were wet, but Pilgrim has been on the hard for nearly 18 months so this was not surprising.  Generally the blisters were minor… smaller than the palm of my hand and penetrating only into the outer layer of mat.

Two notable exceptions were along the port keel.  These areas were larger in size and the damage extended to the outer layer of woven cloth.

Two large blisters on port keel.

These two may be linked to hull stresses as they are located along the transition from solid lead ballast to the hollow section of the keel.

While no area of the hull was completely blister free, the starboard hull had a line of blisters extending from the cockpit area to around mid-salon area and just below the waterline.

Line of blisters along starboard hull just below the waterline.

12 of the 38 blisters were deep enough to require additional mat for repairs. I developed a fancy system for identifying which areas required glass matt and which simply needed filler.

Group of three blisters on the starboard waterline

I’ll bet the readers of this blog are savvy enough to figure out my system from a single photograph.

Our system for repairing the blisters followed the same steps we used last year.

Cutting 1708 cloth for blister repairs.

Apply one or more layers of 1708 cloth to hull

Ready for the grinder.

After curing – wash, rinse, grind with 36 grit disc, wipe down with acetone.  Then fill the area epoxy thickened with a combination of milled fibers & cabosil.  Areas not requiring fiberglass cloth (see blister in center of image above) start the repair process with an application of thickened epoxy.

Ready for sander.

After curing – wash, rinse, sand with 80 grid paper in orbital sander, wipe down with acetone.  Apply first application of epoxy thickened with fairing filler.

Ready for hand sanding.

After curing – wash, rinse, sand lightly with 80 grid paper in orbital sander, hand sand with 80 grit paper on large block, and wipe down with acetone.  Second application of epoxy thickened with fairing filler.

After curing – wash, rinse, hand sand with 80 grit paper on large block, wipe down with acetone.

Ready for barrier coat  :-)

While sanding fairing I developed a second, highly evolved system of identifying the areas completed.  Once again I’m assuming readers of this blog can deduce my system from a single photograph.

The next step, yet uncompleted, will be to overcoat the entire hull with 5 to 7 coats of barrier coat.

For more images and notes from this project check out our Bottom Job Photo Album.

No back to that lingering Ice Box Rebuild.

Bottom Paint Removal

In fall 2004, my initiation into boat ownership began by sanding bottom paint off a Cape Dory Typhoon.

Fall 2004 - backyard bottom job on 2nd Chance. 

Blisters filled and bottom paint gone... time for some barrier coat.

She made the road trip to FL in a fresh application of barrier coat.

Since then I have spent many days driving orbital sanders and disk grinders in pursuit of a bare hull.  Determined there must be a better way…  I researched chemical strippers.  These all appeared fraught with a new realm of mess and hazards.  Soda or sandblasting appears to be a good alternative, but hiring out the job ran against my DIY grain.  I could find no one was willing to load out the extensive and expensive blasting machines. 

A friend of ours in Beaufort with decades more boat experience than I suggested using a very sharp chisel or scraper (Thanks TD).  I recalled a recent Practical Sailor Article (“Digging Into Bottom Paint Removal” March 2014) that also favored using a very sharp scraping device.

With nothing to lose, I collected an assortment of impliments. After some experimentation with chisels, putty knives, paint scrapers, etc.  I found my weapon of choice to be a stiff, 3” wide scraper with a 20⁰ angle in the blade.

Permanently stained bottom paint blue from the task. 

The model I settled on was purchased from Lowes Hardware.  The business end must be sharpened to a knife-like edge and this edge maintained frequently during the removal process.  I set up a sharpening station with a bench grinder and whetstone just outside the tented hull.  A little time behind the scraper and it will be obvious when the tool begins to lose its edge.

The layers of bottom paint come off the hull in large (pea to dime size on Pilgrim) flakes rather than the fine dust generated by sanding or grinding.  Care must be taken to avoid gouging into the substrate below the bottom paint.  

Working in approximately four foot wide strips vertically along the hull, I used the blade to remove the bulk of the bottom paint.  I then revisited the area with 80 grit paper on an orbital sander.

I am a convert to the use of a scraper for removing bottom paint.

Tinted blue and sweating despite the comfortable March temps. 

It took me eight hours split over two days to remove the remaining bottom paint from Pilgrim’s hull.  The job is still a messy, taxing affair that requires every effort to avoid contact with bottom paint.  I don disposable coveralls, a cotton balaclava, a 3M full face mask with particle filters, and heavy duty rubber gloves for the job. 

Looking down the exposed hull.

I am pleased the task of removing Pilgrim’s bottom paint is complete.  We can now move forward with repairing 38 newly uncovered blisters… to be continued.

For more images and notes from this project check out our Bottom Job Photo Album.

Preparations for Removing Pilgrim’s Bottom Paint

In summer of 2014 we repaired a couple areas of delamination and numerous blisters below the waterline on Pilgrim's hull. The damage addressed was discovered via a thorough visual inspection by Anne & I. Our efforts from last summer are documented in earlier blog posts and in our Hull Damage & Blister Repairs Photo Album.

Based on our findings from the summer 2014 repairs, and the fact that approximately 1/3 of the hull’s bottom paint was removed during the repairs. We decided to go all the way and give Pilgrim a full bottom job. For readers unfamiliar with nautical lingo: No, a bottom job has nothing to do with a proctologist. A bottom job for fiberglass, sea going sailing vessel consists of…

1. Removing all existing layers of anti-fouling (bottom) paint. 
2. Repairing any hull damage, water intrusion, or blisters discovered on the exposed hull. 
3. Applying a barrier coat. Barrier coat is a thick, multi-layer application of epoxy primer designed to prohibit water from reaching the fiberglass hull. 
4. Applying new bottom paint. Bottom paint, also referred to as anti-fouling paint, inhibits the buildup of marine growth on the hull. 

Toward the conclusion of summer 2014 hull repairs the boat yard informed us that any further bottom paint removal would require tenting the hull. On January 18, 2015, while Pilgrim was lifted for the removal of her rudder; I placed a roll of 6 mil plastic under the blocks that support her keel. The plastic sheeting sat idle as we waited for winter to loosen her grasp on the southeast. Finally on March 6th, buoyed by warmer weather and inspired by forecast that promised little wind and no precipitation, I spread out the plastic beneath Pilgrim.

Rolling out 6 mil plastic sheeting under Pilgrim.

To reduce the weight of the tent walls and to save money I purchased 4 mil plastic sheeting for the side walls. The top edge of the side walls were spot taped to the hull using 3M 8979 Performance Plus duct tape. The 3M 8979 tape far exceeds the holding power of standard, masking style painters tape, but will pull cleanly away if removed within a few months. The tape is also UV stable.

Once an entire side wall was held in place with short sections of the duct tape, I sealed off the top edge with a full length run of 2” painter’s masking tape.

The lower edge of the tent wall was then stretched out to meet the outer edge of the 6 mil sheeting on the ground. I then placed a piece of lumber, typically a 8' long 2” X 4” atop the two layers of sheeting and rolled the entire assembly towards the hull. If additional weight was required to hold the wall away from the hull then I placed additional scrap lumber atop the roll.

Pilgrim with a plastic skirt.

To prevent pressure differentials, typically caused by breezes, from exerting too much force on the tent and to allow for some fresh air flow within the tent I installed vents. 

Standard household A/C filter employed as a vent in the tent wall.

The vents are standard household air-conditioning filters taped over holes in the tent side walls.    Three of vents were installed on various sides of the tent.

Two vents at the bow.

Starboard side, mid-ship I cut a hole, approximately 36” tall by 18” wide, for egress. 

Door cut in  tent along starboard, mid-ships.

The corners of the hole were re-enforced the duct tape. Then a flap was taped over the hole.

Corners of access opening re-enforced with duct tape and a flap taped over opening.

Working solo, tenting Pilgrim took about 8 hours spread over two days.  The time was fairly evenly split between rolling out the floor plastic under all the jack stands and constructing the side walls.  Choosing a day(s) with little wind saved a great deal of time and frustration.

Tent complete.  Ready to start the dirty job of bottom paint removal.

After lunch on day 2 it was time to suit up and begin the dirty work.

For more images and notes from this project check out our Bottom Job Photo Album.

Rudder Removal

Last week finally provided a warm, clear day to crank up the travel lift and elevate Pilgrim enough to remove her rudder.

The rope securing the rudder in place prior to lifting the boat.

Prior to removing the rudder packing nut and gudgeon, I supported the rudder atop a stack of wood.  With the nut and gudgeon gone the unknown mass of rudder rested solely atop the wood below.  Rather that attempt to guide the post out as the boat was lifted; I ran a 5/8” dock line under the rudder, over the deck and back down to the opposite side of the rudder.   Using a trucker’s hitch, I tensioned the rope.

As the travel lift elevated Pilgrim the rope held in position relative to the boat.  We elevated the boat to a point where the rudder was approximately 6” above stack of blocks.  The blocks were then removed.   Slack was slowly fed through the trucker’s hitch.  The slid easily free of the hull.  Success.

To my surprise, I was able to pick up the rudder and carry it to a pallet alongside the engine.

The rudder resting on a pallet alongside the engine.

I found the rudder more awkwardness of the rudder more challenging than the sheer weight. I’m not good at guessing weight, but the rudder is less than 100 lbs.  Hopefully I will be able to weight it before and after the modifications. 

Fortunately the procedure revealed no surprises – you never know what you are going to find.

Aft side of the skeg.  No surprises here. 

The inside radius of the skeg and the area around the gudgeon cut out need to be cleaned up.  With the rudder out of the way we may go ahead and replace the cutlass bearing.  We have come this far and Pilgrim needs a new prop shaft.  So a new cutlass bearing is likely in the future.

While Pilgrim was elevated, we inserted plastic sheeting under the blocks (visible in the image above.)  The plastic sheeting is foreshadowing of the dreaded anti-fouling paint removal.   Last summer’s hull repairs and thru-hull replacement necessitated removing bottom paint from approximately 1/3 of the hull.  The yard requested that we lay down plastic sheeting and tent around the boat before removing the rest of the bottom paint.  This is a reasonable request as the anti-fouling paint is noxious to bystanders, can foul surrounding boats, and is toxic if it leaches into the ground water.  

We will likely tackle the bottom paint in the near future.  Better to suit up in all the protective gear during the cool winter months than to sweat it out in the summer.

Round Two of Templates for Morgan 382 Rudder Modifications

Thanks for the emails and comments on the original post in this series… Creating a template for Morgan 382 Rudder Modifications.

An email suggested checking out alternative modifications to the M382 rudders.  From the Morgan 38 Discussion Board, I have discovered images of couple unique modifications.

This design incorporates a portion of the skeg into the rudder and also fills in the area at the top of the rudder along the hull.  The design appears well balanced and well crafted.   Often our travels take us to shallow waters and/or waters with many floating buoys from crab or lobster traps thus we prefer to retain the fixed skeg forward of the rudder on Pilgrim.

This design adds surface area to the lower section of the keel, but leaves the upper area open.  I think this is a fine solution for blue water or sailors rarely operating in shallow waters.  Again, we feel more confident operating in shallow waters with a full skeg along the leading edge of the rudder.

This M382 rudder modification does not stray far from the later model factory design.  It does include a horizontal plane near the lower edge of the rudder.

This design intrigues me.  If water spilling over the top of the rudder decreases its effectiveness be creating an eddy on the aft side of the rudder, then does a similar effect not occur on the lower edge of the rudder?  Would this short horizontal plane not reduce this effect with little change in rudder weight and wetted surface?  Yet this design is rarely seen… why?  I welcome anyone with insight to comment.

As for Pilgrim’s rudder modifications, using my original template a created  a second template with additional surface area primarily at the top of the rudder.

Smaller, original template on left and new, larger template on right.

I took Colin’s advice… “ It is important to maintain the proper clearance [between rudder and hull].  The later model rudder had more than your template.  The designers had to consider flexing of the hull and resulting distortion in heavy weather. “, and added additional clearance between the hull and the rudder.

Upper section of template viewed from starboard with the rudder centered.

With this design I am able to run my fingers between the hull and the rudder along the full length of the top edge when the rudder is centered.  Moving the rudder hard to port or starboard reduces the clearance.

Second generation template viewed from starboard with rudder hard to port.

I do prefer the larger, second iteration of the rudder modification.  Below is an image with of the larger template with the rudder centered.

Second generation template viewed from starboard with rudder centered. 

Notice any other changes?  Yes… I have sanded down the hull and removed the rudder gudgeon since the first round of images posted a few days ago. 

I’ll save the details of the gudgeon removal for another post.

I would really like to hear your comments on the latest template for Pilgrim’s rudder modifications and any thoughts on adding a horizontal plane to the lower edge of the rudder.

They Just Do Not Make Them Like They Used To...

Each time we shed fresh light in a dark recess or remove a cosmetic facade to reveal Pilgrim’s structural underpinnings, I find  myself muttering the clichéd line, “They just don’t make them like the used to.” They would be Morgan Yachts and them is sailboats.  

My comparison is between our 1966 Morgan 34

C'est la Vie - 1966 Morgan 34 

and our 1979 Morgan 382.

Pilgrim - 1979 Morgan 382, Hull #115

Now I’m sure the heart rate and blood pressure of some Morgan 382 owners and admirers out there is on the rise, but hear me out. 

I do not feel that the Morgan 382 series is poorly designed.  I am aware that most of the 382's commissioned are still on the water and include hulls that have crossed oceans and circumnavigated the globe. I remain very eager to get Pilgrim back to the water, cast off the dock lines, and point her bow towards the horizon. 

BUT…  It is obvious to me that during the construction of the M382s corners were cut.  My best guess is that the issue lies at the intersection of three factors.

1. Apathy on behalf of hourly workers cranking out 50?, 100?,  or more?  vessels each year.
2. Pressure on the construction team to speed up production to meet market demand.
3. Efforts to maximize profits by keeping fabrication costs in check.

Ok, thus far my rant is simply opinion and conjecture.  Allow me to share our latest discoveries on Pilgrim…

ONE...

Working in the bilge, I noted that the cross brace under the sole that links the partial bulkhead forward of the galley countertop on port with the partial bulkhead  just forward of the nav station on starboard was only tabbed to the hull on the forward side.  

Cross brace under cabin sole lacks tabbing on aft side.

Feeling the tabbing was inadequate, I added a couple layers of 1708 cloth tabbing to the aft side of the brace.

Tet fitting 1708 cloth sections along cross brace.

Tabbing installed along aft side of cross brace.

That evening I reviewed an image of the original construction plans for the bilge.

Original construction plans call for tabbing on both sides of cross brace.

In the original plans the brace is tabbed on both sides.

TWO...

Early this week while removing bottom paint along the starboard forward hull, I discovered vertical cracks in the gel coat.  Grinding the area out revealed damage that closely resembled that on the port side where the head pan settled directly on the hull.

Upper right area is remarkably similar to damage discovered under the head pan on opposite side of hull.

After grinding out the area, I went inside to investigate and discovered the cracks are directly under an un-tabbed section of  bulkhead. 

Glowing area below bulkhead in closet reveals location of damage on hull exterior.

Direct pressure from the un-tabbed, lower section of the bulkhead is the cause of the cracks and subsequent water intrusion.

Woven-roven tabbing along the bulkhead stops few inches above the waterline. 

The tabbing along the aft side of the bulkhead stops just above the waterline.

Forward side of bulkhead lacks tabbing along it's entire length.

The forward side of the bulkhead lacks tabbing along its entire length.  Minimally internal bulkheads should be tabbed on one side wherever they make direct contact with the hull.   Ideally the bulkheads are tabbed for their full length on both sides.   

All the bulkheads in our 1966 Morgan were tabbed on both sides along their entire length.  When Pilgrim returns to the water her bulkheads will also be tabbed along their entire length. 

I’m headed back to the boat to soldier on while muttering, “They just don’t make them like they used to.”

Round One of Hull and Blister Repairs Complete

Like icing on a cake two coats of Interlux2000E mark the conclusion of the initial round of hull and blister repairs on Pilgrim.

Portside repairs are now sealed below 2 coats of grey Interlux2000E

Round one, you ask? 

The need to seal up old thru-hull sites initiated this round of hull repairs.  But since the grinder was in hand, I investigated all suspect areas. 

A poorly completed repair on the port side aft...

We did not discover this poorly completed repair until Pilgrim arrived in NC

Lead to some serious de-lamination

Portside aft damage and original engine raw water intake (below jack stand) ready for new cloth. 

That is now repaired

Portsde aft repairs complete!

Grinding out around the thru hulls in the head…

Grinding away hull material to fill thru-hull fittings in the head revealed hull damage.

Lead to the discovery of hull damage due to internal pressure from the head pan...

Portside forward repairs complete.

We have addressed this issue both inside and now outside the hull.

All visible signs of blisters on the hull…

Hairline cracks with moisture on hull are a sure sign of trouble.

were ground out and filled. The greatest concentration of visible blisters were along the port bow.

Blisters near the bow are now filled and coated.

And starboard aft under the cockpit

Starboard side, aft repairs complete.

Since this round of repairs addressed the most obvious areas of damage, we hope that removing the remaining  anti-fouling paint, in the fall when cooler temperatures prevail, will not reveal any surprises.

Our plan now is to split the remaining work on the hull into thirds.  The aft third of Pilgrim’s hull will likely be the first to receive attention as we plan to drop the rudder for modifications and to allow easier access for aligning the engine with the prop shaft.

The mid-section of the hull will be addressed when we seal up the bilge drain plug.

And the forward third will be addressed when we purchase and install a new depth transducer.

Back to the present, we are pleased with the results of our current efforts.

Looking forward along the midline of Pilgrim's hull.

Additional images and notes from this project can be found in our photo album... Hull Damage & Blister Repairs - 2014