Many “experts”
suggest adding a reflective barrier to the outermost layer of ice box insulation
will increase the efficiency by reducing radiant heat loss. Hmm.
Not certain I’m completely sold on the science behind the theory, but who
am I to question the experts?
For under $50, I purchased
a 24” X 25’ roll of Reflectix
Insulation, roll of 3M
Foil Tape, and a can of 3M
Super77 spray glue.
 |
| Tools and materials for installing the Reflectix Insulation. |
I’ve heard of the Reflectix insulation from other boaters
who have used it in ice box construction, insulation between the deck and
headliner, insulation on the inside of
the hull, and sun screens for ports and hatches. Think of it as bubble wrap with a
reflective coating on both sides. It
cuts easily with scissors or a utility knife.
It is light weight and adheres easily to vertical surfaces with the
spray glue.
NOTE: Definitely wear a respirator when using spray
glue. I hate to imagine what that stuff
would do if inhaled into a person’s respiratory track.
 |
| Installing Reflectix Insulation as the outermost barrier in the ice box. |
The 24” wide roll worked well for the interior of the ice
box. If I were to use it for insulation
in the cabin top under the headliner (which I am considering), then I think the
36” or 48” width may be more appropriate.
 |
| Looking into the ice box opening from the galley. |
Lining the interior of the ice box with the reflectix took
about 2 to 3 hours. Once all the
surfaces were covered, I sealed the
joints and corners with the foil tape to create a tight seal. Using the foil tape to seal the corners was
definitely the most frustrating component of the install. I feel that sealing the corners and seams is
worth the effort in the ice box, but I do not believe it is worth the time and
effort in the headliner.
Next up for the ice box rebuild will be the 1" foam board insulation.
More images and notes from this on-going project as
available in the Ice
Box Rebuild Photo Album.
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